Introduction
After almost 20 years since our last trip to Hawaii as a family, we decided to return to Honolulu for some quality time and R&R. We spent about a week on Waikiki with excursions throughout Oahu in search of the best things to eat.
Table of contents
Food
Would eat again
Banan makes soft serve just from bananas. With no other additives, this dessert is a really refreshing and healthy treat. Tucked into a path to the beach lined with surfboards in Waikiki, you order at a window and get your frozen dessert a few minutes later. It’s really easy to miss, but they do put out a sign on the main street so that you can spot it as you’re walking along.
Because we didn’t end up being able to hike Diamond Head, we arrived here before the grill was open, which meant we weren’t able to try any hot plates (no loco moco). We did grab a slice of haupia cake. While I was kind of skeptical, it was delicious. It was the perfect level of sweetness and perfectly moist. Haupia (Hawaiian coconut pudding) is also super subtle in flavor, so it just added some extra creaminess to this slice.
Foodland Poké
This might sound surprising, but Foodland is a grocery store chain known for its amazing poké. In the normal course of events, I would almost never eat raw fish from a grocery store chain, but I got this recommendation from a Hawaiian colleague. The poké is in the same section as the fresh seafood and there was a line of people waiting to order it. They have many types and sell the poké by the pound or in a poké bowl over a bed of warm rice. The poké was delicious and super fresh and better than anything I’ve had on the mainland.
Ginza Bairin Tonkatsu & Yoshoku
The only US location of a famous Japanese tonkatsu restaurant, Ginza Bairin specializes in Japanese tonkatsu. The tonkatsu is good, but it’s on the pricier side, especially if you are choosing the fattier Kurobuta pork. I’ve had both that one and the normal tonkatsu, and I don’t think I truly appreciate the difference so I might stick to normal next time.
I’m personally somewhat mixed on tonkatsu, but I actually really enjoyed their beef stew. The sauce was hearty and the meat was so tender. I also loved the pickled veggies it came with.
This has been on my list since my last trip to Hawaii, but I was finally able to try it this time. Helena’s is known for being one of the best places to find traditional Hawaiian foods. Their menu centers around rice plates, and you can sit or order take out.
We had a plate with the kalua pig and short ribs. It came with poi, macaroni salad and haupia. This wasn’t my first time trying Hawaiian food, but it was my favorite time eating it. The pig and short ribs were really well seasoned. The haupia and poi were also enjoyable, even though poi is still somewhat of a bland food for me. The macaroni salad was also yum, although not as good as the one from Rainbow Drive-In.
The more casual restaurant at the Halekulani, House Without a Key is known for live music and hula dancing every evening from 5:30 pm to ~8 pm. You can enjoy the performance over drinks or seated at the restaurant. While I really enjoyed the live music and hula dancing, the food was a mixed bag. Some dishes were definitely better than others. Everything on the Laulau was delicious, but I had the signature steamed fish and was disappointed by how dry it was.
Otherwise, the service was really friendly. Our waiter came by often to make friendly conversation with us. Make sure to try one of their signature mai tais while you’re there!
This will be a controversial opinion, but out of the shave ice I’ve tried, this one is my favorite. The ice just has a perfect fresh snow consistency and the toppings (like the condensed milk and mochi) are sweet and delicious.
Situated right on Waikiki’s busiest street, the lines can be long, but it’s worth the wait. It moves relatively quickly – I think the most time I’ve spent in line is about 30 minutes.
Leonard’s (Kapahulu location)
Leonard’s is a popular malasada bakery on Oahu. A malasada is basically a fluffy donut that is topped with sugar and can be filled. This popular bakery is small, but has a decently sized parking lot. We ordered and waited for our malasadas outside where everyone was snapping pictures. When our number was called, we got our donuts and they were WARM.
The malasada itself is fluffy and has a bit of an eggy taste. My favorite was the guava cream filled one. This was one of the best things I have ever eaten in Hawaii. The fact that they were warm made all the difference and I will definitely be back.
Musubi Cafe Iyasume (Waikiki Seaside location)
Musubi is a snack consisting of a slice of spam on top of a bed of rice. The spam can be combined with other foods like egg, eel or avocado. I’d never had musubi before trying it here, but was surprised by how filling and delicious it is! One and a half musubis is actually enough for a light meal. We ate this before heading towards the North Shore.
Orchid’s Sunday Champagne Brunch
This was my favorite meal of the trip. I made a reservation months in advance. Orchid’s and Hoku’s are known for having the two most famous Sunday brunches on the island, and I decided to go with Orchid’s because Hoku’s doesn’t have outdoor dining and I was interested in seeing the Halekulani hotel.
This was the best buffet breakfast I have ever had, better than anything I have had in Las Vegas. While the food selection was a lot more limited than what you might find in Las Vegas, the overall food quality and taste was so high, and the service was 5-stars.
At $103 per person, the brunch comes with two glasses of champagne, unlimited tea, coffee, and juice, unlimited access to their buffet stations and a selection of hot dishes made to order.
Each station, other than the desserts, is manned by a chef who prepares the perfect plate for you. The restaurant is incredibly thoughtful when it comes to portion sizes, making it easier to try everything you want and helping to reduce waste (so important!).
Highlights were the snow crab legs, extensive carving station, fresh sushi station, hot pancakes and waffles, fresh juices, and ice cream station.
I can’t wait to go back.
Tips:
- Book early. The restaurant isn’t very large and I can tell they don’t have many seatings. Earlier is better so you can stay longer. The last seating is 1:30 pm, but they don’t start clearing anything until around 2:45 pm.
- You can request outdoor seating, but they don’t guarantee it.
Rainbow Drive-In (Kapahulu location)
Another great recommendation from my colleague, Rainbow Drive-In serves Hawaiian rice plates. This location is fun because it looks the most like an old school drive-in. After parking in their lot, you walk up to a window to order and receive your food. They have a few outdoor tables, but most meals are packaged neatly in a box and ready to go.
We tried the loco moco plate, which came with macaroni salad. I adore loco moco because I love gravy, and this version was the best I’ve had. The macaroni salad was also incredible.
Ray’s Kiawe Broiled Chicken (Haleiwa location)
Spit roasting chickens outdoors over a bed of coals, Ray’s Kiawe Broiled Chicken serves up some of the best chicken I’ve had. The chicken is made fresh throughout the day until 4 pm when they put out their fire and sell off the remaining chickens. Both times I’ve been, I have shared the half chicken plate, which comes with rice, a delicious coleslaw and “grandmother’s sauce” (a tart dipping soy sauce). At $12 a plate, it’s hard to beat, especially when the chicken is so moist and flavorful.
Tips:
- Their hours vary by day, so check their IG @rayskiawechicken for the latest hours. Their phone number is also listed there and they do pick up!
- They take cash or card.
Would skip
We came here because we wanted to eat Japanese fluffy pancakes and this was the only place near Waikiki where we could find them. Located in the Monarch Hotel, the restaurant is small and quaint and has an outdoor terrace with a few tables. My sister and I shared one order of the fluffy pancakes with mixed berries. It was good especially since we had a craving for it, but I wouldn’t make it a destination.
Liliha Bakery (Waikiki location)
I have tried this twice now at two different locations and unfortunately have been disappointed both times. Liliha is well known for its cream puffs. They have a bunch of different fillings and flavors, but my gripe with them is how dry the puff itself is. It almost tastes like eating paper.
We also had dinner at this location and it was ok. We had the saimin, which was below average, and the mushroom chicken was decent.
This is the most popular shave ice on the island, and there are long lines to prove it. The lines move quickly and it’s fun to watch them prepare the orders. It’s controversial, but I do feel like this is a bit overrated. For me, the ice is a little too hard compared with what Island Vintage does and the mochi topping is really bland. I’ve been here twice, but I think next time I’m on the North Shore, I might branch out to try one of the other shave ice places nearby.
Culture
Must do
The North Shore
The North Shore is the north side of Oahu and is much more local. A series of small towns are filled with shops and small eateries, and the beaches are supposed to be the best on the island. It’s about a 1+ hour drive from Waikiki, and can be more if there is a lot of traffic. It’s worth visiting though – there are some great foods to eat (they have a very robust food truck scene), and it’s a fun contrast to Honolulu. My recommendations are Matsumoto Shave Ice and Ray’s Kiawe Broiled Chicken. I talk about them more in the Food section above.
Waimea Bay Beach Park
This is one of the best beaches in Oahu and is on the North Shore. We stopped by a bit later in the day after visiting the Dole Plantation and eating on the North Shore, but there were still tons of people hanging out. More of a local spot, it seemed like most people on the beach were locals, with a few tourists mixed in. A lot of teens were hanging out on a really high rock on the beach and jumping off into the water.
There is no chair/towel service here, so make sure to bring everything you need (including an umbrella if you want shade). Compared to Waikiki, the sand here was made up of larger grains, but somehow really enjoyable to walk on. The waves were a bit more aggressive, but water was still fun to dip into. Apparently in winter months, the water can be really harsh.
If I come back to Oahu, I’ll probably make sure to come back here earlier and make a day out of it.
Waikiki Beach
Waikiki Beach is really in the middle of it all and the most touristy area of Oahu. The beach is actually really beautiful – soft sand and calm, clear blue water. If you’re staying at a hotel on the beach, then they might offer beach chair service.
The street running immediately parallel to the beach is lined with every designer store and the Royal Hawaiian Center, which is an open-air mall with more stores and a ton of restaurants.
Waikiki is so lively – at most times of the day, you can see groups of people walking down the street, shopping and eating.
Fun, but not essential
Dole Plantation
Dole Plantation is a pineapple plantation. On site, you can take a 20 minute train ride through the plantations for a history lesson about the plantation and a tour of the fields. If you want to do this, get to Dole early. Tickets start selling at 9:15 am. By the time we arrived at 1 pm, the wait for the train was 1.5 hours long, and it’s a line you have to stand in the whole time (i.e. you can’t reserve a later time slot). We decided to skip that and just have a few snacks, including fresh pineapple (delicious) and the famous Dole Whip.
Unless you are really gung ho about pineapples or are planning on doing the tour, this is probably something that you can skip. While it’s fun and brings back some memories for me because I visited as a kid, there isn’t much to do and it’s about a 40 minute drive away from Waikiki depending on traffic.
Sad I missed
Diamond Head Crater Hike
We didn’t realize that you need to make a reservation to hike! We drove up to the Diamond Head only to be faced with several signs reading “Reservations Required.” We’re sad we missed it, but I’ll try to do it next time!
The hike is brief, less than 2 miles round trip, but includes a lot of stairs and no shade, so it typically makes sense to go earlier or later in the day before it gets too hot. Afterwards, you can get a bite to eat at the Diamond Head Market and Grill.
Accommodations
The Westin Moana Surfrider
The Moana is located right in the middle of Waikiki, which makes sense – it was Waikiki’s first hotel. Built in 1901, it is one of 315 Historic Hotels of America.
The Moana was incredibly lively. With an open-air entrance that leads to the Banyan Courtyard, and by extension, Waikiki beach, the hotel is airy and welcoming to its guests and visitors. Guests roamed through the lobby, in the courtyard, by the pool and to the beach from 7 am onwards. Live music inside and outside was a constant in the evenings.
I stayed at the Moana one other time about a year and a half ago, and recall it being a popular hotel. While I was initially concerned that the crowds would make the trip feel less relaxing, I ended up really enjoying having other people around. It made it feel like there was always something fun to participate in. And because it’s Hawaii, the staff and guests are always in such a positive mood, that that energy becomes contagious.
And while it’s filled with guests, the Moana never feels too crowded. You can always find a rocking chair to lounge in, a table to sit at and watch live music, and a chair on the beach (even if it isn’t front row). By comparison, I know a few other hotels (like the Hilton) on Waikiki can easily feel overcrowded.
Beach and pool
One of the things I love about the Moana is the easy beach access. The Moana is in a prime spot right on Waikiki and they offer beach chairs (two with an umbrella) for rent every day. The hotel provides unlimited towels and beachside food and beverage service. Once you rent a chair for the day, you can come and go as you please.
The proximity to the beach is one of the highlights of the hotel. If I go to a tropical destination, staying at a hotel with beach access is a must for me.
The first day we wanted to spend a lot of time at the beach I reserved chairs with the hotel. They get everything set up for you by laying out towels. The second day we wanted to go to the beach, the only chairs left were behind the lifeguard stand, so the hotel recommended we rent from a vendor next door. The vendor was literally situated on the beach in front of our hotel. Their rates were slightly higher, but they had front row chairs available and we were able to just grab towels from the hotel.
The pool at the Moana initially struck me as small, but when I actually got in, it was quite roomy. Chairs by the pool are first-come-first-serve, but they get snagged up pretty early, and only free up a bit later in the afternoon.
Tips:
- You can sign up for beach chairs as early as 7 am one day prior. Those who want front row seats probably get in line at 6:50 am. This isn’t as hard as it sounds because of the time difference.
- If you reserve a chair, they are very generous with towels. Otherwise, you typically get one towel card per person at check-in that you trade in for a towel and get back when you return a towel.
- If you don’t snag a chair with the hotel, a vendor right next to the hotel is renting beach chairs for a *slightly* higher rate. They can charge the chair to the room or take cash.
Rooms
We stayed in a Historic Banyan Deluxe, Larger Guest Room with City View. The room was very large when compared against standard double rooms. Even though I had booked a room with a City View, I was delighted to find that the room had two large windows that looked out into the Courtyard and the ocean!
While the room was a bit older given it was in the historic side of the hotel, it’s still very comfortable.
The evenings could be quite loud with the sounds of live music and people talking reaching the room, but the music always stopped by 10 pm, and the crowds generally followed quite quickly afterwards. Once the crowds were gone, I was pleasantly surprised to realize I could hear ocean waves throughout the night and into the morning. I don’t think there’s a more relaxing sound to wake up to.
Service
The service was very friendly. We often needed new towels or other bathroom items throughout our stay, and the staff was very quick to deliver it to our room. It was easy to communicate with the hotel staff through the chat function in the Marriott Bonvoy app.
Everyone working at the bars and restaurants were very nice and accommodating. The poolside and beachside service were also very friendly, even if it sometimes took a little while for beachside waiters to come by.
Dining
The dining options were solid – we really only ate at the Veranda for breakfast and by the pool/beach. The Veranda was exclusively outdoors, which was a really nice way to start the day. Most breakfast entrées come with juice and coffee or tea.
Spa
During my stay, I made a visit to the spa for a massage. The Moana had touted its spa as being award-winning and as the only spa on Waikiki that was beachside. Marketing images showed a massage room opening up to the ocean. While this is all true, there was only one treatment room that opened to the ocean that was meant for couples’ massages, and cost a $45 premium to book.
The spa itself was generally clean, but the decor was a bit outdated which detracted from a feeling of relaxation. One of the relaxation rooms and the hot tub room did look out onto the ocean, which was nice. The bathrooms weren’t particularly well stocked – each shower had a eucalyptus spray bottle, but mine was empty. Empty shampoo bottles sat on the bench in my shower stall.
The massage itself was pretty decent. My masseuse was a little too chatty at the start and didn’t really create a particularly calming vibe. It was hard to find the balance between too little and too much pressure. I decided to err on the side of slightly more pressure, and I think I got a lot of knots worked out of me, but didn’t leave feeling as relaxed as I have from other massages.
I think next time I would probably skip the massage here and give the Ritz Carlton spa a try.
Activities
The Moana had an extensive complimentary activity list: yoga, meditation, ukulele, story time and lei making classes happened almost every day. The booking system is simple – you scan a QR code and add the classes you want to a cart, then check out.
I did yoga at 8 am most days, which was the perfect time because it was still cool out. All equipment was provided and the class took place outdoors in front of the ocean. Medium height hedges provided privacy so that you couldn’t see any beachgoers, but you could still hear the sounds of the waves. The teachers were great!
We also did a lei making class, which was a fun and wholesome activity. The class took place at the Sheraton across the street. (Truthfully that wasn’t super apparent to me when I was booking, but it was a short walk away).
Would I stay here again?
Yes, definitely, especially if I want to be in the thick of things, and isn’t that why you go to Honolulu, and more specifically, Waikiki?
Other hotels by comparison
The Halekulani
The other hotel I was considering staying at was the Halekulani. Viewed as the most luxurious hotel in Waikiki, I was definitely curious about it. I ultimately decided to stay at the Moana because of its location and beach access, but we did go to the Halekulani twice to eat during our trip.
The service at the restaurants was generally top notch, and I felt the Halekulani paid attention to the details. I was surprised by how quiet it was in comparison to the Moana. It didn’t even feel like you were in Waikiki anymore, and in that respect, it could be a nice escape. When we went there for dinner, very few people were there watching the live music (even though this was a highlight mentioned in several articles and blog posts). By comparison, most of the tables at the Moana were filled with guests watching the live music every night.
I didn’t walk onto the beach at Halekulani, but from what I read it is quite limited.
After visiting and seeing how quiet it is, I probably wouldn’t be as inclined to stay there. When visiting Waikiki, I’m generally looking for a lively vibe and easy beach access.
Alohilani Waikiki
The Alohilani was modern and the rooms were clean, but the hotel doesn’t have beach access and the pool (while highlighted a lot on the website) is decently sized, but feels limited. I think staying at the Alohilani made me feel like I wasn’t really a part of the action and couldn’t easily get access to what I was looking for. I wouldn’t stay there again.
The Four Seasons
The Four Seasons in Ko’Olina is beautiful and perfectly crowd controlled. The rooms were large and gorgeous, and my room looked out onto the three pools and the lagoon. Ko’Olina is remote and staying there is more peaceful than Waikiki. The drawbacks are that they don’t have access to a real beach and there aren’t many good restaurants around. If you stay at the Four Seasons, you’ll likely spend the majority of your time there unless you rent a car and plan to take excursions.
On my last trip, we split our time between the Four Seasons and Waikiki and I think that ended up being a reasonable compromise. While I loved staying at the Four Seasons, I think if I was looking for the more relaxed vibe, I would probably visit another island, just because I tend to visit Honolulu when I’m looking for a more eventful trip.
AMANDA'S CHANTICS 