Delhi
Delhi was incredibly lively – everywhere we went, so much was going on. So many people, so many cars, and so much to see. Through my research, I found that Delhi had the most cultural sites to see, which led it to having the most aggressive itinerary of the trip. It also meant that it was the itinerary that got the most cut from it.
Table of contents
Food
Bukhara in the ITC Maurya
Bukhara is one of the best reviewed restaurants in Delhi, with 4.5 stars across 4,500 reviews on TripAdvisor. Several celebrity guests have been photographed eating their massive naan. We made a reservation for 8 and headed to the restaurant after a long day of sightseeing.
The restaurant was full and really clean, but it felt like we walked into a tourist trap again. The food was average and the menu consisted primarily of grilled options. Outside of that, they had one black daal on the menu, which was probably the best thing we ate. The massive naan was sadly disappointing because it was way too crispy. The meal came out to $80 a person, making it one of the most expensive meals we had in India, and one of the most disappointing.
Would I eat there again? No, definitely not. After talking with our tour guide, he mentioned that Bukhara was often a disappointment to travelers.
Plum by Bentchair
Located in Aerocity, Plum is known for being particularly Instagrammable because of its eclectic furniture and decor. The cuisine is Asian fusion – dumplings, noodles, rice dishes, and skewers are all part of their menu. Everything we ate was pretty decent and the vibe was upbeat and fun.
Would I eat there again? It was decent, but if I had to go back to Aerocity, I’d probably try something new.
McDonald’s
Delhi was where I chose to try McDonald’s while I was in India, in spite of my tour guide’s hesitation (he asked us multiple times if we didn’t want to try an Italian cafe chain instead). It was honestly quite good – it was very clean, and mostly filled with families or young groups of friends. The staples were all good, and the paneer burger, spicy cheese fries, and chai masala were a lot of fun to try.
Culture
Must do
Akshardham
Akshardham is a Hindu temple and spiritual-cultural campus that was built in 2005. Even though it’s relatively new, it was built with traditional architectural principles. The campus is massive and you could easily spend 3-4 hours in it if you wanted to.
We made one stop at the main temple, the Mandir. The temple is a large and symmetrical structure, with incredible detail carved into every side. Inside are sculptures of different Hindu gods, the largest of which sits in an enclave in the center, surrounded by decorations made of gold and precious stones.
You’re not allowed to wear shoes inside the temple, so before going in you can drop them off at one of the shoe check stations. Another thing you’re not allowed to bring into Akshardham is your phone (or any cameras). While I was disappointed I wouldn’t be able to take pictures, I was also relieved that for once I could just focus on enjoying what I was seeing.
Tips:
- Free to enter, but there are extra charges for specific exhibits.
- No phones or cameras! There is a photo op in front of the Mandir that costs less than ~$20 USD and is ready in 20 minutes. Take the picture before visiting the Mandir.
Chandni Chowk
This was my favorite experience in Delhi and the most immersive.
Chandni Chowk is a local market with small shops selling spices, fruits and vegetables. Bookshops, clothing stores, and electronics stores are tucked into narrow alleyways. Vendors on foot sell fresh street foods and boiled masala chai.
To visit, we rode a rickshaw through the market streets. Cars are not allowed to drive through the market and it felt a little too chaotic to walk the entire way. The rickshaw was the perfect way to cover a lot of ground and feel like you were really part of the experience. At times, our rickshaw was surrounded by masses of people walking through narrow alleyways and almost grazed electrical wires hanging between the buildings around us. Our driver was helpful in pointing out key sites, like the HQ of the East India Trading Company. We got out briefly to walk through a very narrow spice lane and peruse the fruit stands more closely, but after a few minutes, hopped back into our rickshaw.
Tips:
- Ride a rickshaw through the market to avoid having to go on foot.
- 2 people can ride per rickshaw, and the entire journey (into the market and out) cost about ~$6 USD.
Humayun’s Tomb
Humayun’s Tomb was built in the 1560s and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The inspiration for the Taj Mahal, it is a stunning monument. Just walking up to it, I felt in awe of the detailed architecture.
The Red Fort
The Red Fort is located in Old Delhi and was the main residence of the Mughal emperors. Compared to Jaigarh Fort in Jaipur, the Red Fort’s interior was more elaborate. The interior is filled with individual buildings that each had a different use case for the Mughals – some were for political meetings, while others were for leisure.
Tips:
- It is closed on Monday!
Fun, but not essential
Connaught Place
Connaught Place felt like the Times Square of Delhi. Known primarily as a commercial center, Connaught Place houses the headquarters of several Indian firms and major retail stores. The neighborhood centers around two rings of Georgian-style buildings full of shops. At night, all the stores are lit up and crowds of people are out shopping. It definitely felt like one of the more modern and Westernized areas of Delhi.
Lodhi Colony
Lodi Colony is where the government houses government officers and staff. As a tourist attraction, it’s become known for a series of elaborate murals painted on the walls of the housing buildings. Artists from all over the world have been commissioned to paint elaborate scenes. If you’re in the area, it’s fun to drive through.
Lodi Garden
A popular place for joggers and walkers, Lodi Garden is a large park in New Delhi that also houses a series of historical tombs and mosques. While it’s a lovely place to walk and has a few cool buildings to see, the pollution in Delhi can be quite intense at times and if you’re not used to it, it’s easy to feel like your nasal passages and throat are affected by the air.
Accommodations
The Novotel Delhi, Aerocity
Aerocity in Delhi is its own little neighborhood right near the Delhi airport with a bunch of hotels, restaurants and shops. Not exactly where I would choose to spend my time normally, but perfect for the overnight layover we had prior to the wedding.
For an airport hotel, the Novotel was a really pleasant stay. The hotel was modern, and while the rooms weren’t big, they were clean and comfortable. So jet lagged after a 15 hour flight, and starving, we decided to order room service and were pleasantly surprised that it was so delicious. There weren’t a ton of common areas, but a bar downstairs provided a place to grab a drink or meet up with the group before going out.
The breakfast buffet was quite nice, and I would say the food was on par with the buffet at the Oberoi.
Would I stay there again?
Yes, if I was in transit and needed to stay close to the airport.
The Oberoi, New Delhi
The Oberoi is a luxury hotel brand with properties in Asia, the Middle East and northern Africa. Staying at the Oberoi was one of the highlights of the trip. The hotel’s decor was minimalist, tasteful and elegant. The service was impeccable from start to finish and every person we interacted with was incredibly accommodating and thoughtful. The tours that the Oberoi organized for us were my favorite on the trip. While the food options we tried varied in terms of taste, I did appreciate how many options there were – from formal dining options to casual grab and go. One thing I didn’t get to try out was the spa, but I look forward to checking that out on my next stay!
Rooms
The room was reasonably sized, and very tastefully designed. Our room overlooked Delhi’s forested golf course, and standing back you it looked like you were atop a lush forest. The bathroom had a standing bathtub and a separate shower.
Restaurants
The Oberoi houses three restaurants, two bars and a French patisserie. All of them are similarly elegantly designed and the service is fantastic at all of them. The food at the breakfast buffet at 360° was quite similar in quality to the Fairmont. While they weren’t boiling masala chai live, they served it upon request.
Upstairs, Cirrus 9, the rooftop bar serves elegant cocktails, and downstairs the Oberoi Patisserie and Delicatessen sells pastries and sandwiches.
Service
Our visit coincided with me and my boyfriend’s anniversary, and I shared that with the Oberoi when they asked me prior to our stay whether we were celebrating a special occasion. The reception they gave us to celebrate was incredibly thoughtful. At reception, we were greeted with a bouquet of roses, and they had decorated our room with a series of floral arrangements and drawn a bath topped with red rose petals. They also left us a full delicious chocolate cake.
As soon as we arrived in our room, there was a knock on the door. One of the staff members came to greet us with hot towels and a spiced welcome drink.
In Agra, Delhi and Mumbai, I had the hotel help me organize sightseeing tours, and the service I received from the Oberoi was the best. All I had to do was provide them with a list of sites I was interested in, and they split them into two days of well thought-out itineraries. They hired the local tour guide (who was incredibly knowledgeable and spoke 10 languages) and provided a private chauffeur from the hotel.
The chauffeured drives were a highlight. The first day, we rode in a black SUV (as there were four of us plus the guide), and the second day in a Mercedes E Class sedan (for two of us and the guide). The cars were incredibly comfortable and stocked with water bottles, hand sanitizer, masks and gloves, which the driver refilled each time we stepped out of the car. The cars also had complimentary wi-fi – a major amenity to me as an international traveler.
The attention to detail throughout the property and in every interaction was so apparent, and exceeded anything I have experienced at a Four Seasons or Ritz Carlton. The service alone was enough to make me look forward to my next stay at an Oberoi property.
Would I stay there again?
Yes, definitely. I wouldn’t hesitate!
AMANDA'S CHANTICS 